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When it comes to painting moldings, achieving perfect miters can be a challenge. However, with the right techniques and materials, anyone can turn their imperfect miters into beautiful works of art. In this article, the focus will be on identifying imperfections, choosing the correct filler, sanding techniques, dust removal and cleaning, priming the wood, final sanding, painting, and revealing the finished product.
The Funny Carpenter recommends using Elmer’s white wood filler for filling in cracks and nail holes. It is important to use the right material, as lightweight spackle and caulk are not suitable for the face of a miter. Once the filler is applied, it is important to sand it down properly and prime it before applying the final coat of paint. By following these steps, anyone can achieve professional-looking moldings in their home.
Key Takeaways
- Use Elmer’s white wood filler for filling in cracks and nail holes in moldings.
- Proper sanding and priming are crucial for achieving a professional-looking finish.
- Use a dedicated water-based trim paint in a satin or semi-gloss finish for the final coat.
Identifying Imperfections
When it comes to painting door casings, achieving perfect miters can be a challenge. Even seasoned professionals can struggle with this task. However, identifying imperfections is the first step towards achieving beautiful works of art.
The first thing to do is to scrape off any loose bits with a putty knife or fingernail. Then, it’s time to fill in the cracks. It’s important to use the right material for this step. Lightweight spackle or caulking are not the right choices. Instead, Elmer’s white wood filler is recommended. Apply enough wood filler to cover the cracks and build it up to avoid doing two coats.
Once the wood filler is dry, it’s time to sand it down. Avoid using a soft sponge and opt for 150 grit sheet sandpaper instead. Use your finger to feel the surface and make sure everything is flush and smooth.
If the moldings on the left side meet up nicely, 150 grit sheet sandpaper is all that’s needed. However, if the moldings on the right side do not meet up, an orbital sander with 150 grit sandpaper is recommended. After sanding, blow off any dust and wipe the surface clean.
Priming is the next step. Using a water-based primer is not recommended when dealing with raw wood. Instead, an alcohol or oil-based primer such as Kilz or Benzenzer’s alcohol-based shellac primer is recommended. Lightly apply the primer over the filler areas and let it dry.
After the primer is dry, give it a light sanding and wipe it clean. Finally, it’s time to paint. Use a dedicated water-based trim paint in a satin or semi-gloss finish for a durable result.
By following these steps, anyone can achieve beautiful miters on their door casings and painted moldings.
Choosing the Correct Filler
Comparing Spackle and Wood Filler
When it comes to filling in cracks and gaps in painted moldings, it is important to choose the right material. While lightweight spackle and caulking are popular choices, they are not suitable for filling in the face of a miter. Lightweight spackle is too soft and can easily be damaged, while caulking is best used for edges between the wall and frame of a door.
Wood filler, on the other hand, is a much better option for filling in cracks and gaps in painted moldings. It is harder than spackle and can withstand wear and tear, making it ideal for use in high-traffic areas. Elmer’s white wood filler is a popular choice and can be found at Home Depot or online.
Application of Wood Filler
To apply wood filler, simply squeeze it out or dip your finger into the tub and press it as deep as you can into the crack, covering nail holes as well. It is important to put enough wood filler on to build it up enough so that you do not have to do two coats, but not so much that it creates a mess.
If there are any tricky profiles, a 90-degree putty knife can be used to clean out the filler before it dries. Once the filler has been applied, it should be left to dry before sanding.
When sanding, it is recommended to use 150 grit sheet sandpaper on the faces of the moldings that meet up nicely. For areas where the moldings do not meet up, an orbital sander with 150 grit sandpaper can be used to remove any excess filler.
After sanding, it is important to blow off any dust and wipe down the area with a rag or paper towel. Priming the filler is recommended, as it will fill in any small imperfections and create a smoother finish. Alcohol or oil-based primers, such as Kilz or Benzenzer, are recommended over water-based primers, especially when raw wood is involved.
Once the primer has dried, a final light sanding is recommended before applying the final coat of water-based trim paint in a satin or semi-gloss finish. Following these steps will result in a professional-looking finish that will last for years to come.
Sanding Techniques
Using Sheet Sandpaper
To start sanding the filled miter, it is recommended to avoid using a soft sponge and instead use 150 grit sheet sandpaper. This is because all the faces of the moldings meet up nicely, so the sheet sandpaper is all that is needed. The user should run their finger over the surface to ensure that everything is flush and smooth.
Orbital Sander for Uneven Surfaces
If the moldings did not meet up on a big flat section, an orbital sander is recommended. The user should put some 150 grit sandpaper on the orbital sander and run it over until the primer is removed on both sides of the miter. This will ensure that the surface is smooth. The rest of the sanding can be done with sheet sandpaper.
Dust Removal and Cleaning
To achieve a flawless finish when painting moldings, it is essential to remove any dust or debris from the surface. The first step is to scrape off any loose bits with a putty knife or fingernail. Once the surface is clean, it is time to fill any cracks or holes.
Using the right material for filling is crucial. Lightweight spackle or dap should not be used as they are too soft and will not provide a durable finish. Instead, use a wood filler like Elmer’s white wood filler, which is available at Home Depot or online.
To fill the cracks, squeeze the wood filler out or dip a finger into the tub and press it as deep as possible into the crack. Cover any nail holes while doing so. It is important to put enough wood filler on and build it up enough to avoid doing two coats, but not so much that it creates a mess.
For any tricky profiles, use a 90-degree putty knife to clean out the filler before it dries. Once the filler is dry, sand it with 150-grit sheet sandpaper or an orbital sander if necessary. Use a finger to ensure the surface is smooth and flush.
Blow off any dust and wipe the surface with a rag or paper towel. It is important to prime the filler before painting to achieve a flawless finish. Water-based primer should be avoided when dealing with raw wood, and instead, an alcohol or oil-based primer like Kilz or Benzenzer’s shellac primer should be used.
After the primer is dry, give the surface a light sanding with a soft sand sponge. Blow off any dust and wipe the surface one final time before applying the final coat of paint. Use a dedicated water-based trim paint in a satin or semi-gloss finish for durability.
Following these steps will result in a flawless finish that is better than 99% of professional miter work.
Priming the Wood
Selecting the Right Primer
When it comes to priming wood, selecting the right primer is crucial. Using the wrong primer can result in a less than satisfactory outcome. It is important to avoid using water-based primers on raw wood as it can cause the wood to swell and ruin the finish. Instead, it is recommended to use alcohol or oil-based primers such as Kilz or benzene-based shellac primer. These products are great for filling in small imperfections and providing a smooth surface for painting.
Applying Primer
Before applying primer, it is important to scrape off any loose bits with a putty knife or fingernail. Once the surface is clean, apply the wood filler to the cracks and nail holes. Elmer’s white wood filler is a great option as it is harder than lightweight spackling and can be easily found online or at Home Depot. After applying the wood filler, allow it to dry and then sand it down with 150 grit sandpaper. For flat sections, an orbital sander can be used to remove excess filler.
Once the wood filler is sanded down, blow off any excess dust and wipe down the surface with a rag. Apply the primer using light to heavy coats over the filler areas. This will fill in any small imperfections and provide a smooth surface for painting. After the primer is dry, give it a quick light sand with a soft sand sponge to remove any rough spots. Finally, wipe down the surface one last time before applying the final coat of paint. By following these steps, anyone can achieve a professional-looking finish on their painted moldings.
Final Sanding
To achieve a flawless finish on painted moldings, the final sanding is a crucial step. The first step is to scrape off any loose bits with a putty knife or fingernail. Then, the right material for filling the cracks is essential. Lightweight spackle or caulking is not recommended for the face of a miter. Instead, Elmer’s white wood filler is a better option.
After filling the cracks, it is important to build up enough wood filler so that only one coat is needed, but not so much that it creates a mess. For tricky profiles, a 90-degree putty knife can be used to clean out the excess filler before it dries.
Once the wood filler is dry, it’s time to sand. For flat sections where the moldings meet up nicely, 150-grit sheet sandpaper is recommended. For sections where the moldings do not meet up, an orbital sander with 150-grit sandpaper can be used. After sanding, it is important to blow off any dust and wipe the surface with a rag.
Priming is the next step before painting. Water-based primer is not recommended for raw wood. Alcohol or oil-based primer, such as Kilz or benzene shellac primer, is a better option. Priming will fill in small imperfections and create a smoother surface for painting.
After priming, a light sanding with a soft sand sponge is recommended. This will not change the profile of the wood and will remove any rough spots. The final step is to use a water-based trim paint in a satin or semi-gloss finish.
By following these steps, anyone can achieve a professional-looking finish on painted moldings.
Painting
Choosing Trim Paint
When painting door casings or moldings, it’s important to choose the right type of paint. A dedicated water-based trim paint in a satin or semi-gloss finish is recommended for its durability.
Applying Final Paint
Before applying the final paint, it’s important to properly prepare the surface. Start by scraping off any loose bits with a putty knife or fingernail. Then, fill in any cracks or nail holes with Elmer’s white wood filler. Avoid using lightweight spackle or caulking, as they are not suitable for the face of a miter.
Once the wood filler is dry, use 150 grit sheet sandpaper or an orbital sander to smooth out the surface. Blow off any dust and wipe the surface clean. Apply a primer, such as Kilz or an alcohol-based shellac primer, to fill in any imperfections and ensure a smooth finish.
After the primer has dried, lightly sand the surface with a soft sand sponge and wipe it clean. Apply the final coat of trim paint and enjoy the beautiful results. These techniques can be used for any painted moldings in your home, and even seasoned pros can benefit from these tips.
Revealing the Finished Product
In this section, The Funny Carpenter shares his techniques for transforming poorly executed door casings into works of art. He emphasizes the importance of using the right materials for filling in cracks and nail holes, recommending Elmer’s white wood filler for its durability.
After building up the wood filler, he advises using 150 grit sheet sandpaper to sand down the surface until it is smooth and flush. For more difficult profiles, a putty knife can be used to clean out excess filler before it dries.
Once the surface is sanded, he suggests using an alcohol or oil-based primer to fill in imperfections and provide a smooth base for painting. He warns against using water-based primer on raw wood, as it can lead to poor results.
After allowing the primer to dry, the surface can be sanded lightly once more before applying the final coat of water-based trim paint in a satin or semi-gloss finish. He assures that following these steps will result in a finished product that is better than 99% of professionally executed miters.